It is said that secondhand clothes from overseas spread rapidly in Japan after the end of the Second World War. The 90’s vintage boom was a time when the connection between fashion and secondhand clothes was particularly pronounced. And now, in this age of chaos… The value of secondhand clothes has changed with the times. Mizoguchi-san, who worked at vintage clothing stores HAg-Le and KALMA before going independent and opening the concept store fernweh in 2023, is another person who is proposing new ways of thinking about the value of secondhand clothing.
“When dealing with secondhand clothes, I think about how to transform the value of the past into the present. I think there is an interesting aspect to secondhand clothes in that you can find value in things that nobody else would have looked at. I myself have a very strong desire to see things I don’t know about, and I’m always looking for that exciting feeling.”
Mr. Mizoguchi says that vintage denim and the archives of famous designer brands are like textbooks, and are objects of respect. However, their value is fixed and unchangeable, and it doesn’t matter who handles them. He says that new value and excitement can be found in the anonymity of the creators, brands, countries, etc.
“Fortunately, I am a member of a generation that has seen the way that secondhand clothing stores and older generations have done things for a long time. And I am also a member of a pioneering generation that has gradually changed the way that secondhand clothing stores operate through a more fashion-oriented approach. Even though they are highly anonymous and cannot be fully expressed in words, there are many things that resonate with the heart. I think that is also the beauty of fashion.”
The secondhand clothes that fernweh buys in America are mainly ladies’ wear, but nearly 30% of the customers who come to the store are men. This shows the unique attitude of the modern era, where people enjoy unique fashion purely for its own sake.
from right: RISA wearing vintage LAPLAUD dawn jacket, dress, shoes by FERNWEH | MIYU wearing vintge SAINT LAURENT RIVE GAUCHE jacket, pants by WITTY | YUKI wearing vintage PIERRE CARDIN cape by LAILA VINTAGE | AYANO wearing vintage MODELE DEPOSE shawl, dress and top by ESMERALDA SERVICED DEPARTMENT | NONO wearing vintage top, skirt, pants by HOOKED | IPPEI wearing vintage ALLEGRI coat, CERRUTI1881 SPORT jamper, DOLCE & GABBANA pants by DE CHILICO
Determining the essence of curiosity through an anonymous object
When you look inside fernweh, the vintage and select brands are arranged randomly, so at first glance it’s hard to tell them apart. This is a reflection of the experimental and essential message that “what you naturally pick up from the ambiguous boundary is what you are really interested in”. Furthermore, the reason for treating secondhand and new clothes equally is a pure desire for the future of fashion.
“I feel that fashion design since the 1990s has been repeating imitation and quotation, and that this has not resulted in anything new. In addition to this, we now live in a society where it is difficult to make things because we are obsessed with superficial sustainability. High-quality secondhand clothes can only be made with high-quality production. I think we need to look at the interesting aspects of modern expression and processes, just as we do with vintage clothes that have the design of craft. I want to actively support creations that stimulate our senses”.
åThe transformation of value in second-hand clothes is closer to the sensibilities of the ‘makers’ who create collections from among the myriad possibilities. On the other hand, in the case of new designer brands such as ‘Meryll Rogge’ and ‘Kota Gushiken’, the way they are styled and introduced is filtered through the eyes of the designer, but they are still ‘spokespersons’ for the makers. By harmonizing these different ways of approaching things within the space, and by mixing in miscellaneous goods, art works, and the adjacent flower shop “duft”, a fernweh-like worldview with amplified depth is born.
“I think the information that flows in from the moment you set foot in the store is a valuable experience that you can’t get online. There are risks in setting up a physical store, but you can’t make good things or have fun without taking risks in terms of time and cost.
Mr. Mizoguchi says that the modern secondhand clothing market has become more commercialized, for better or for worse, with the front door thrown wide open, and that the overall level of quality has declined. In addition, the major secondhand clothing stores that mainly dealt in regular secondhand clothing have been disappearing one after another, and with the price range that used to feel reasonable now on the rise, what should the future look like?
“Knowledge of secondhand clothes and an interest in fashion contexts are just one of the things that make you like and enjoy clothes, and they’re not something that anyone can force on you. I think that the most important thing is to be able to enjoy fashion freely without being constrained by categories, and as a result, a deeper interest and consideration for the environment will naturally arise. I want to create a place like that while also cherishing our own community.”
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writer
KEISUKE HONDA
Born in 1984. After working at an apparel store that sold secondhand and imported clothes, she worked at a publishing company before becoming a freelance editor. She writes articles and conducts interviews and planning and composition in various media in the context of diverse styles and cultures.
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