Fashion

2024.11.24

#3_The sense of accomplishment you can only get at DE CHIRICO, that fuses Italian paninaro and American style

photographer SHOTA KONO
stylist SAEKO SUGAI
hair KAZUHIRO NAKA
make-up SUZUKI
model NONO KINOUCHI, AYANO OTAKI, IPPEI TANAKA, MIYU MOTEGI, RISA MAKINO, YUKI NAKAMURA
text KEISUKE HONDA

#3_The sense of accomplishment you can only get at DE CHIRICO, that fuses Italian paninaro and American style

In recent years, the number of shops selling used items from designer brands has increased dramatically. However, many of these shops are little more than fads, and they don’t really seem to serve any particular purpose. In this context, DE CHIRICO, a men’s select store, stands out as a store that takes on the responsibility of “preserving top-class creations for future generations”. The director is Mr. Suzuki, who previously worked at the men’s vintage store “Surr”, run by Lila, which releases a carefully selected archive of brands to the world. The challenge is how to develop the already established public image of Lila in a way that is unique to him.

By “choosing”, the story becomes apparent and the value is reaffirmed.

“At DE CHIRICO, we mainly stock vintage clothing that we have bought in Europe, particularly Italy. There aren’t many shops in Japan that buy vintage clothes from the same perspective, and I’ve developed my own style through my own actions”. Suzuki-san, who says that he was greatly influenced by the world of fashion through his interest in American vintage clothes, is most interested in the subculture called ‘Paninaro’ that emerged in Italy in the early 80s, and the vintage items associated with it. The Paninaro style is characterized by a mix of high-quality European brands such as Moncler and Stone Island jackets with classic American casual wear such as Timberland boots and jeans.
 
In the 1970s, there was a lot of interest in studying in America in Italy, and it is said that many American cultural influences were brought back to Italy as a result. Also, as the 1980s began, American-style restaurants and other establishments began to appear in Italy, and the country became increasingly Americanized. Paninaro was a style that became popular among soccer team supporters around that time. Although the fact that I used to play soccer was one of the reasons I was attracted to subcultures like Paninaro and Casuals, I think the most attractive thing about them is that they allow people to express their individuality by gathering together around something that at first glance seems like nothing special.

The store’s lineup features used items from the 1980s to the early 2000s. At first glance, the items give off a rugged American casual look, but the contents are consistent with “American culture from an Italian perspective”, including representative Italian brands such as Valentino, Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana. As the director himself says, “Even if the appearance is similar to American products, the pursuit of comfort in terms of material selection, lightness, and attention to pattern is completely different. As the director himself says, “It’s packed with the appeal of being an original creation,” the mix of high quality, typical of Italy’s strong tailoring culture, and an Americanized mood is like nothing else. In addition, fans of DE CHIRICO’s unique selection, which does not adhere to the classic style that is synonymous with Italian clothing, come not only from Japan but also from overseas.

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from left: IPPEI wearing vintage ALLEGRI coat, CERRUTI1881 SPORT jamper, DOLCE & GABBANA pants by DE CHILICO | YUKI wearing vintage PIERRE CARDIN cape and shoes by LAILA VINTAGE |

“Each era has its own quirks, but for me, the power of a designer lies in their ability to create images that have never existed before. In that sense, it’s really interesting to see how Italian brands of this era have completely changed their creations. I find time to carefully check the collection materials and runway show footage from that era, and use them as a reference for my purchases.” According to Mr. Suzuki, when you look at the latest collections from fashion brands, you can see that some of them are inspired by the archive designs from Italy, such as those handled by DE CHIRICO.
“I think it’s very exciting to think that the excellent designs of the past are connected to the present and the future, and that this shop, which handles them, is also having an effect on the world. I think the value of the original will continue to be unchanged in the future.”
 
If you keep your eyes firmly on the things you like, you will be blessed with a virtuous cycle, even if you didn’t intend it. There are a lot of large chain-affiliated recycling shops springing up everywhere, and if you’re fed up with the buzzwords like “eco” and “consideration for the environment” that are being bandied about when it comes to secondhand clothes, then DE CHIRICO is the place for you. You’re sure to find colors that you can’t find anywhere else.

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infomation

DE CHIRICO

2-3-3 B1F Shibuya-ku Tokyo, 150-0002
12:00 to 19:30
 
WEBSITE
INSTAGRAM

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writer

KEISUKE HONDA

Born in 1984. After working at an apparel store that sold secondhand and imported clothes, she worked at a publishing company before becoming a freelance editor. She writes articles and conducts interviews and planning and composition in various media in the context of diverse styles and cultures.

 
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