The fascinating expression of RICK OWENS continues to exert such a strong influence that it is not surprising that there is a style called RICK OWENS, just as there are street, gothic, punk, and other styles. At the fashion shows, fans from all over the world, all dressed to the nines, rush to the venue in Paris. The world view created by designer Rick Owens is largely based on his past environment and his encounter with his wife, Michèle LAMY. What is the path he has taken so far, and what does he see for the future?
RICK OWENS Roots of Creativity
Rick Owens launched his own brand in Los Angeles in 1997, and has been based in Paris since 2003. He has continued to introduce aggressive items to the world, combining black and dull dark colors with draping and different materials. In addition to their signature cropped riders’ jackets, the brand’s high-cut sneakers are based on iconic basketball shoes, and their 12cm heeled kiss boots are available in men’s sizes and give confidence to those who wear them.
The provocative fashion items are RICK OWENS itself, as if those items are shouting “What does it mean to be “manly” or “womanly”?
RICK OWENS’ shows are always spectacular and glamorous. The latest Spring/Summer 2013 Women’s Collection, presented in September 2024, featured models dressed in black like armies. It almost looked like a scene out of a movie. We also cannot forget to appreciate those details that each item has, over-sized jacket, long boots and a black cape blowing in the wind.
RICK OWENS is a brand that never ceases to surprise us.
Overwhelming originality that surpasses the conflicts of a time of repression
His ideas and inspirations are greatly influenced by his childhood experiences: he was born in California in 1961 and raised in a strict Catholic family. His father banned television and forced Rick to attend church from an early age. As he entered adolescence, the obedient boy began to erode his values with a unique aesthetic, as if he were a role model, and his world spread its wings: at age 15 he became a David Bowie admirer, and at age 16 he watched “The Rocky Horror Show” and was captivated.
In 1981, he changed his base to Los Angeles to study painting at “Otis College of Art & Design. During this time away from home, his father sent letters to gay support groups and even to Rick himself, asking him to “explain the immorality of being gay.” It is not hard to imagine how painful this oppressive behavior must have been for him, who had recognized and accepted his sexuality from a young age.
Today, he accepts his father’s behavior as “misguided love,” and his father is seen regularly visiting Rick’s shows and conversing with drag queens at after-parties. Although it may not be the picture-perfect family love of an ordinary family, he has incorporated it into his own work, paying respect to various backgrounds to sublimate the mistakes of a time when there was less understanding of sexual minorities than there is today.
Symbiosis: Two people, one big entity
In addition to his childhood experiences, there is another person who has had a great influence on him. In 2001, he signed a contract with EBA, an Italian trading company, and established himself in Europe. Michèle RAMY, a cultural icon in his own right, has been his wife, business partner, and confidante for 30 years, and is widely associated with musicians and is respected in all genres of art, fashion, and food. “When I founded the brand, I only delved deeply into the clothes that Michelle was interested in. She always shows me how to express myself.” The RICK OWENS brand is only possible because of the support of his partner, Michèle RAMY.
For more inclusive future
RICK OWENS has launched a collection called “ECO AWARE” with the aim of preserving the environment. This collection is made from materials that are as environmentally friendly as possible. The material viscose, made from “cellulose,” which is considered a sustainable regenerated fiber, is FSC certified, promising that the fiber is produced under a responsible management system and does not cause deforestation. Cotton is GOTS certified organic cotton, and no harmful chemicals are used in the production process, preventing soil and water contamination. Cashmere and yarn are made from recycled materials.
The collection also strives to produce as much of the collection as possible in Concordia, Italy.
This commitment to local production not only provides employment opportunities and transparency in the production process, but also reduces CO2 emissions. Their sustainability challenge is now expanding into their main collection: for the Fall/Winter 2011 collection, they used edible pirarucu skins for their dresses. By using discarded skins, they were also able to support the Amazonian community.
In the interview with Vogue Japan, Rick Owens said, “I want to focus on growth rather than brand expansion, and I want to speak out about issues of prejudice and discrimination.” The aesthetics toward sustainability that he drives will be an inspiration for many possibilities for the new era, and will provide energy and impetus for change for all people.
writer
ATSUSHI NAKAYAMA
Born in 1995. Born and raisend in Kochi Prefecture, Japan. After studying abroad in the U.S.,went to Australia for working holiday and joined the Tender Party in 2024. In charge of sustainability and fashion related issues at TP. Sometimes a model. Sometimes a cat sitter.
BRAND NAME
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
COMPANY NAME
SHOWROOM: Pred PR
SHOWROOM: Pred PR
INFORMATION
The “ECO AWARE” collection was launched with the aim of environmental conservation. Knitwear made from recycled yarns and GOTS-certified organic cotton, which does not use harmful chemicals in the manufacturing process.
2024/11/06