Fashion

2024.12.03

“There’s nothing to hide” – the innovative denim brand that coexists with the world

photographer:DAEHYUN IM
fashion director:JUNKO KOBASHI
hair make:YOKO OKUNO
Model:ALEXA Z
text:ATSUSHI NAKAYAMA

“There’s nothing to hide” – the innovative denim brand that coexists with the world

hnst, which takes its name from the English word “honest,” is a denim brand from Belgium. The brand’s products are not only comfortable and well-designed, but are also made using environmentally friendly manufacturing methods. From high-waisted denim that flaunts style to items with a boyish, baggy size feel, from bright blue to dark black, the diversity of items that can be worn by all types of people is a testament to the sincerity of the makers.

Sincerity to the wearer, consistency of responsibility in manufacturing

hnst uses recycled denim as its raw material, and in its manufacturing process, there are seven steps: “harvesting”, “grinding”, “weaving”, “design”, “sewing”, “washing”, and “circulation”, each step plays an important role. It is not just about repeating manufacturing, but also about the responsibility after it is handed over to the consumer, and looking beyond that to circularity.
hnst, which uses recycled denim as raw material, has seven steps in its production process: “harvesting,” “grinding,” “weaving,” “design,” “stitching,” “washing,” and “circulation,” each of which plays an important role. The company does not just repeat the manufacturing process, but also takes responsibility after the product reaches the consumer and looks beyond the circulation of the product.
When selecting materials, the brand uses only organic or recycled materials. Recycled materials collected from “post-consumers” are sorted by quality, and scientifically damaged materials are sent into a cycle for use as industrial materials. Next, buttons, rivets, labels, etc. are removed and shredded into fine fibers, which are then blended with organic cotton and other materials and woven into fabrics. At this point, the fabric is dyed. SmartIndigo is used for the brand’s signature blue denim, which is dyed in a way that conserves water and minimizes harmful by-products. The newly reborn fabric is then designed into items that consumers can use for a long time.

Traditionally, denim is coated with PVA plastic, which causes water pollution. hnst denim, however, uses pectin, a type of fiber, as a coating to make it recyclable. It is also important to note that hnst’s sewing team is protected by strict labor standards. To ensure a safe work environment, suppliers are only affiliated with European countries, so they are not forced to work in unsafe conditions for low wages out of sight. In laundry, the company has succeeded in saving water and using methods that reduce harmful substances. One third of their electricity comes from solar energy.

The denim is delivered to the consumer with love and sincerity, but it is not the end of the process. If the owner changes his/her mind, they can return it to the brand’s recycling systemand a discount will be given for the next purchase. This integrated process, from manufacturing to product recall, could be one movement that many brands should take the opportunity to review their manufacturing processes.

NOTHING TO HIDE

hnst is one of the most transparent brands. Not only does it follow the strict manufacturing process mentioned earlier, but it also documents the results of the manufacturing process on its own website. In the traditional denim industry, about 1478 liters of water is used to make one piece of denim. Since the water volume of a typical bathtub is said to be 200 liters, it is clear how much water is used for one denim. The amount of carbon dioxide emitted is 7.86 kg, which is the same as the amount of carbon dioxide emitted by a diesel car driving 33 km. On the other hand, the amount of water used for one hnst denim is about 138 liters, which is about 91% less than the amount of water used for conventional denim. Carbon dioxide emissions are 4.16 kg, also far less than conventional emissions.
 
The company uses recycled materials and strives to rely on renewable energy sources such as solar energy as much as possible. In addition, all products have detailed transparency of materials and ingredients, just like food labels. The company has “nothing to hide” and can proudly introduce its products to the world because it has transparency in information that cannot be obtained from the labels of ordinary clothing brands, such as the ratio of recycled cotton to organic cotton, the materials used in the threads, and the countries where the threads and buttons are made.

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Confronting the fashion world with strong passion and perspective

Anne Chapelle is the driving force behind hnst. She was formerly CEO of ANN DEMEULEMEESTER. With the experience she gained there and her new vision, she will bring a new wind to the fashion world. She once said in an interview,
“Fashion takes time and money. You have to have a strong vision and stick to it. If you don’t really love it, you won’t be able to continue.” The combination of her strong will for the environment and her love of fashion has resulted in denim that everyone can contribute to the earth just by buying it.
 
Even if you are well-educated in fashion, it would be hard to know how much water is polluted and how much carbon dioxide is emitted to make a single piece of denim. There are always challenges out there that need to be faced, problems that cannot be solved by hnst alone, problems that are directly related to us. But if you have the opportunity to buy new denim, choosing a brand like hnst will bring the world closer to the solution little by little.

【References】
https://www.letsbehonest.eu/pages/impact
https://www.fashionsnap.com/article/2023-12-15/hnst-2024/
https://www.vogue.co.jp/article/hnst-denim-masayo-ugawa
https://www.smartindigo.com
https://www.flandersdc.be/en/magazine/anne-chapelle-fashion-is-a-trade-that-takes-time

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Sustainability Anquete

hnst

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writer

Atsushi Nakayama

Born in 1995. Born in Kochi Prefecture. After studying abroad in the U.S., he went to Australia for a working holiday and joined the 2024 Tender Party. She is in charge of sustainability and fashion related issues. Sometimes modeling. Occasional cat sitter.