There is a clear difference between vintage shops and second-hand shops. The difference is whether or not the items are “selected” based on “one’s own will”. The process of picking out the one item you think is the best from among hundreds or thousands of second-hand clothes cannot continue without love. HOOKED owner Koyo Ando is someone who is constantly thinking about vintage fashion and style. When she said during the interview, “The joy of vintage is in its continuity,” it felt like everything was summed up in that one sentence.
Depending on how you face it, the wound can turn into a sign of deep love.
Ando-san likes the designs and textures of the past, and she uses high-quality items for a long time. Indeed, the texture of old wool and cotton garments is completely different from that of modern clothes. One reason for this is probably that they were made in a cleaner environment than the one we have today, with its increasing air pollution and global warming.
“When I look at dresses from over 100 years ago, which were made with corsets to tighten the waist, or clothes with lace that are obviously made to be glamorous, I feel a kind of spirit that is hard to put into words. Or, like men’s work clothes, I’m also drawn to the stripped-down ruggedness of clothes that were made for a specific purpose. There is something about the power and passion of the creator that resonates with the heart even after time has passed.”
As she looks at the details of the clothes, which show the twists and distortions that the creator probably didn’t intend when they were made, she wonders what the previous owner was thinking as they wore them, and faces each item one by one.
“I don’t buy clothes to relieve stress or to socialize, and I rarely have anything that I want to get rid of. I still feel a little pathetic that I’ve never used a flea market app, but I’ve never been good at throwing things away since I was little.”
fro left: IPPEI wearing vintage ALLEGRI coat, CERRUTI1881 SPORT jamper, DOLCE & GABBANA pants by DE CHILICO | NONO wearing vintage top, skirt, pants by HOOKED
Just like with a wardrobe, the selection of products handled by the shop is limited to those that the owner genuinely feels they want to have. The enthusiasm that fosters a relationship of trust between seller and buyer shapes the “essence” of each other.
“Unlike modern clothes, vintage clothes often have distinctive designs, so you don’t know what they’ll look like until you try them on. You can’t help but be excited about how you’re going to wear it, what you’re going to pair it with next, and you get a sense of depth that makes you feel like there’s a whole new world waiting for you there.”
HOOKED mainly sells its clothes face-to-face in its stores. This is because the store places importance on each customer being able to feel the clothes directly on their skin. She then goes on to reflect on past experiences that have helped to shape her identity.
from left: AYANO wearing vintage MODELE DEPOSE shawl, dress and top by ESMERALDA SERVICED DEPARTMENT | NONO wearing vintage top, skirt, pants by HOOKED | RISA wearing vintage LAPLAUD dawn jacket, dress, shoes by FERNWEH
Incorporating the preciousness of the body into fashion
“When I was little, I often wore hand-me-downs from my father, who loved clothes, and clothes that my older brothers and sisters had worn out. This was not a hardship for me, and in fact I was happier than if I had gone out to buy new clothes. In fact, many of my father’s clothes were tailor-made and of a high quality, and even as a child I was attracted to them. The pleasant feeling of wearing something good that someone else has worn continues to this day, and perhaps I am reliving those memories of the past through secondhand and vintage clothes.”
For Ando-san, who learned so much from secondhand clothes, the most appealing thing was that “you can wear the clothes you want, freely”. It doesn’t matter if you’re not the same as everyone else. Even if it’s someone else’s old clothes, as long as you’re honest with yourself, you can enjoy clothes forever.
“Having been in contact with secondhand clothes for a long time, I can understand the origins and eras of current fashion designs. I have the impression that the designs that give a sense of novelty have already been exhausted, but that doesn’t mean I want the world to be one where people just make a lot of cheap clothes without trying anything new. Fashion is always something that can be enjoyed. When I communicate with the customers who come to HOOKED, I feel like I’m sharing a similar sensibility with them, and there are also many people who are acting with a purpose or a goal.”
It’s true that the small number of vintage items available is precious. However, that is not a reason to wear it. On the other hand, it is not a reason not to wear it because it is so common. It is something that you can look at, touch and enjoy. That is why you want to take care of it and wear it for a long time. It is difficult to always be honest with yourself, but it is a very important feeling. The values of what you choose are only within yourself.
ETERNAL VALUE stories＜/strong>
writer
KEISUKE HONDA
Born in 1984. After working at an apparel store that sold secondhand and imported clothes, she worked at a publishing company before becoming a freelance editor. She writes articles and conducts interviews and planning and composition in various media in the context of diverse styles and cultures.